TUCCI in TUSCANY
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Manganaro’s Grosseria Italiana, commonly referred to as Manganaro’s, was an Italian market and deli on Ninth Avenue in the Hell’s Kitchen neighborhood of Manhattan, New York City. It opened in 1893 and operated for 119 years, helping to introduce the hero sandwich to Americans. The family closed the business and put the property up for sale in 2012.
The business was founded in 1893 by Ernest Petrucci as a wine and spirits store, Petrucci’s Wines & Brandies, that also sold groceries. Its location at 488 Ninth Avenue near 37th Street was on a stretch of the avenue that remained lined with exotic food stores for decades. After the enactment of Prohibition in the U.S. in 1919, Petrucci’s nephew James Manganaro, an immigrant from Naples, took over the store in the 1920s and changed the name; in 1927 he was able to buy the building. Manganaro may have invented the hero sandwich, and played a role in introducing it to Americans.
On his death in 1953, Manganaro’s passed to his brother Louis and sister Nina Manganaro Dell’Orto and their spouses; in 1955, with a publicity agent’s help, they invented the six-foot “Hero-Boy” sandwich, which was successful enough for one of Dell’Orto’s four sons to go on the original version of the TV quiz show I’ve Got a Secret, and for the family to open a sandwich shop next door at 492–494 Ninth Avenue the following year, while continuing to operate a deli and lunch counter in the rear of the grocery store.
In 1962, Louis Manganaro retired and two of his four nephews took over the grocery store and the other two the sandwich shop, Manganaro’s Hero-Boy, and the businesses were separated.
Sal Dell’Orto, who bought out his brother’s half ownership of the grocery store, and James Dell’Orto, who bought out his brother’s half ownership of the sandwich shop, fell out over rights to the “Manganaro’s Hero-Boy” name, trademarked by the sandwich shop in 1969, and advertising for party sandwich telephone hotlines, which led to two separate court cases. The business’ neon sign installed in the early 1930s, which became blinking in the 1960s, was turned off in 2000 so that Manganaro’s Hero-Boy could not benefit from it.The grocery store was repeatedly found at fault over the hotline and was ordered to pay damages to the sandwich shop, and the financial drain plus waning popularity, some of it due to the declining neighborhood, led to the decision to sell the building and close. This was first announced early in 2011, but the building was withdrawn from the market; the business then closed in late February 2012.
Anthony Bourdain featured the store, on the episode title “Disappering Manhattan” on No Reservations TV Show.
LANZA’S
Lanza’s was an Italian restaurant in the East Village, Manhattan. It was opened in 1904 by Sicilian immigrant Michael Lanza in a tenement built in 1871. Lanza was rumored to have been a chef for Victor Emmanuel III of Italy. They closed in 2015. Eater reported it officially closed in 2017 after seizure by a marshal for non-payment of taxes. It is also said to have closed in 2016. The former restaurant’s murals, stained glass, and sign were retained by Joe and Pat’s, a pizzeria that opened at the location in 2018.
They were known to be a favorite of Lucky Luciano, Carmine “Lilo” Galante and Joseph “Socks” Lanza.
RAO’S
CHEF LUC MAKES The ORIGINAL BOLGONESE
UPDATED RECIPE FOR REAL RAGÙ ALLA BOLOGNESE
DEPOSITED IN THE BOLOGNA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE ON 20 APRIL 2023
Coarsely ground beef (see note): 1 lb (400g)
• Fresh pork pancetta, slices: 6 oz (150g)
• ½ onion, peeled: about 2 oz (60g)
• 1 medium carrot, peeled: about 2 oz (60g)
• 1 celery stalk, trimmed: about 2 oz (60g)
• ½ cup (1 glass) of red or white wine
• Strained tomatoes: 7 oz (200g)
• Tomato paste (double-concentrated): 1 tbsp
• ½ cup (1 glass) of whole milk (optional)
• Light meat or vegetable broth (or stock cubes)
• Extra virgin olive oil: 3 tbsp
• Salt and pepper
PREPARATION :
In a heavy non-stick 10-inch (24-26cm) casserole (aluminium or enamelled cast-iron (Dutch oven)
or terracotta saucepans can be used), melt the ground or chopped pancetta with olive oil.
Using a chef’s or chopping knife, finely chop the onion, celery, and carrot (do not use a food
processor); add the vegetables to the oil and pancetta and cook over low heat, stirring constantly
with a wooden spoon until softened but not browned.
Raise the heat to medium and add the meat, break it up, then cook for about ten minutes, always
stirring, until it sizzles and browns.
Add the wine; cook over medium heat until it has completely evaporated. Add the tomato paste
and purée. Mix well; add a cup of boiling stock (or water) and simmer, covered, for about 2 hours
(or 3 depending on preference and type of meat), adding hot broth (or water) as needed. Add any
milk (traditionally used) half way through the cooking; allow to evaporate completely. Season with
salt and pepper before serving. When ready the sauce will be a rich maroon hue, thick and glossy.
ISTITUZIONE CULTURALE
DELLA REPUBBLICA ITALIANA
Note
Traditionally, in Bologna hanger or skirt steak is used (the diaphragm of the beef, which is difficult
to find today). In lieu or in addition, favour anterior cuts, rich in collagen, such as shoulder or
chuck, brisket, plate or flank. Combinations are acceptable, as is the modern technique of
browning the meat separately and then adding it to the softened minced vegetables in the pan.
Permitted variants:
• Mixed beef and pork (about 60% beef)
• Meat minced with a knife
• Cured pancetta instead of fresh pancetta
• A pinch of nutmeg
Unacceptable variants:
• Veal
• Smoked pancetta or bacon
• Only pork
• Garlic, rosemary, parsley or other herbs and spices
• Brandy instead of wine
• Flour as a thickening agent
Ragù alla bolognese can be enriched with:
• Chicken livers, hearts and gizzards
• Peeled and crumbled pork sausage
• Blanched peas, added at the end of cooking
• Dried porcini, rehydrated
RAGU BOLOGNESE – Official Recipe
SPAGHETTI NERANO – Recipe
Spaghetti is one of the most famous dishes of the Amalfi Coast. The dish comes from the town of Nerano on the coast of the Sorrento Peninsula just across from Capri. The dish was created by Maria Grazia at her trattoria in Nerano. The primary ingredient of the dish is Zucchini with Povola or Caciocavallo Cheese grated into the pasta. Many restaurants on the Amalfi Coast and Capri serve this dish, and most locals know how to make it, and cook it at home, especially if they happen to have a little garden growing Zucchini, Tomatoes, and other vegetables. It’s easy to make and soul satisfying. If you’ve been to the area you may have already eaten it, and so know you can make it back home. Enjoy.
Ingredients :
3 medium sized Zucchini, washed
4 tablespoons Olive Oil
1 tablespoon Butter
3 cloves Garlic, peeled and cut in half
¼ cup fresh Basil, washed and leaves torn in half
¾ cup of grated Caciocavallo Cheese
1 pound imported Italian Spaghetti
Sea Salt and ground Black Pepper
Slice the Zucchini into ⅛” rounds.
Fill a large pot ¾ full of water, with 2 tablespoons salt and bring to the boil.
Place the Olive Oil in a large frying pan, and turn heat to a medium flame. Add the Zucchini and start to cool. Sprinkle the zucchini with about ½ teaspoon each of salt and Black Pepper. Add the butter and garlic and cook the zucchini for 4-5 minutes on medium heat.
Add about a ¼ of the pasta cooking water to the pan with the zucchini, turn the heat to low and cook for about 6 minutes on low heat. Stir the zucchini with a wooden spoon as it is cooking.
Put the spaghetti into the rapidly boiling water and cook according to the directions on the package and the spaghetti is al dente (slightly firm to the bite) usually about 10-11 minutes.
After the zucchini has cooked for a total of about 11 minutes. Turn the heat off. add the Basil and stir. Taste 1 piece of zucchini for seasoning to see if you want to add any more salt or pepper.
When the spaghetti is cooked, turn the heat off and drain the spaghetti into a colander, reserving ¼ cup of the pasta cooking water in case you need to add to the sauce.
Return the spaghetti to the put that it cooked in. Add all zucchini and all the juices from the pan in the pot with the spaghetti and stir.
Add half of the grated Caciocavallo cheese and stir. The consistency should be just slightly loose. If it is too tight, add a little pasta cooking water and stir.
Plate the spaghetti on 4 plates, giving each person an even amount of zucchini. Drizzle a little olive oil over each plate and serve.
Note : It’s best to make the dish with Caciocavallo Cheese, but if you can’t find, a combination of half grated Pecorino and half of Parmigiano Reggiano is a good substitute, or just Parmigano or Pecorino on their own.
Note II : Once you know how to make Spaghetti Nerano, you can make little variations, simply by adding one other ingredient that marries well with the dish. A great addition to this dish is to make Spaghetti Nerano just as above, and to add 4 or 5 pieces of sauteed shrimp on to each plate. Just have the shrimp ready and cook them in a little olive oil, seasoned with salt & pepper, and cooked for about 2 minutes on each side. Turn the heat off and add 4 or 5 pieces of shrimp to the plate with the Spaghetti Nerano and enjoy.
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This Recipe complements of Best Selling Italian Cookbook AUthor DBZ from his latest book
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1 lb. Imported Italian Spaghetti (or Linguine)
1 pound Cockles or Manila Clams
18 Littleneck Clams
12 tablespoons Olive Oil
4 cloves Garlic, peeled. Cut 3 cloves into thin slivers, keep one garlic clove whole.
1/8 teaspoon Red Pepper Flakes
12 Cherry Tomatoes, cut in half
Salt & Black Pepper
4 tablespoons chopped fresh Parsley
¼ cup Water
Place Littleneck clams in a medium size pot with a lid. Add Water and clams with 1 whole garlic clove, cover pot. Turn heat up to high and cook clams until they just open. Turn flame off. Remove clams from pot and reserve the cooking liquid.
Put a large pot of water on stove and bring to boil for cooking the pasta. Add Spaghetti or Linguine to pot of rapidly boiling water with salt and cook according to directions on package.
Sauté Garlic in Olive Oil in a large sauté pan over medium until garlic just starts to brown, lower heat to low and add Red Pepper. Cook 1 Minute.
Add Cherry Tomatoes and cook over medium heat for 2 minutes.
Add Cockles (or Manila Clams) to pan with garlic and olive oil. Add cooking liquid from larger Cherry Stone Clams to pan. Put cover on pan and turn heat to high, and cook until the Cockles (clams) just open.
Remove cooked Cherrystones from shells and chop each clam into about 6 pieces or so. Add the Chopped Cherrystone Clams and Parsley to pan with Cockles. When pasta is done cooking, drain it and add to pan with clams. Using a pair of tongs, mix pasta with clams, and cooking liquid.
Divide Pasta into 4 to 6 equal portions on plates or pasta bowls. Divide all cooking liquid and Clams over each portion of pasta on the plates. Sprinkle on some more Olive Oil once Pasta is plated. Enjoy.
RECIPE excerpted from POSITANO The AMALFI COAST COOKBOOK / TRAVEL , courtesy of author Daniel Bellino Zwicke ….
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FORLINI’S
Forlini’s, one of Manhattan’s last remaining red sauce joints that first opened in 1956, has officially closed, owner Joe Forlini confirmed to Eater in an interview. The building that houses has also been sold. Earlier this week, Forlini told Eater that the restaurant, located at 93 Baxter Street, near Walker Street, may close on April 18 — or sooner. “I like the idea of closing that Monday after Easter Sunday,” Forlini said at the time, adding that it’s ultimately up to the new owners to decide. However, after publication of this article, Forlini suddenly told Eater via phone that the restaurant had held its last service as of last night. Forlini would not elaborate on the change.
Forlini confirmed that 12 family members currently own the 91-93 Baxter Street building, with him and Derek Forlini as the sole operators of the restaurant. Forlini says the reason for the closure was simply due to age. “My cousin and I are in our sixties now,” he says.
Over the years, Forlini’s became known for its old-school classic dishes like veal scalloppini, lasagna, chicken parmigiana, and limoncello, and it’s remained a restaurant that Eater critic Robert Sietsema considers one of the rare spots to eat well in Little Italy these days.
Given its proximity to the Manhattan courts, Forlini’s became a favorite amongst lawyers, judges, and jurors on lunch break. In recent years, the restaurant has also been embraced by the fashion industry, with Vogueonce hosting a Met Gala pre-party at the establishment.
Forlini did not disclose the name of the new owners, and that his real estate agent is not currently aware of anyone slated to rent the restaurant space. However, he stated that the new owners purchased the whole restaurant space, including tables, chairs, and equipment. Joe and his cousin Derek Forlini retain the Forlini’s name.
In 2020, Eater reported that the building that houses the family-run restaurant was on the market for $15 million and would subsequently shut down. Sales documents that year estimated that the value of the restaurant, was estimated to be worth $32,000 a month in rent. The amount Forlini and his family ended up selling both the restaurant and building for was not disclosed to Eater.
Eater reached out to Marcus & Millichap real estate group, which originally listed the building complex in 2020, but did not hear back by the time of publication (Forlini told Eater that he worked with a different, unnamed real estate agent team for the final sale).
“We’re going to go out and celebrate exactly like we did for 70 plus years,” Forlini told Eater earlier this week, in response to whether any specials were in the works for the restaurants winding down. Forlini added that after the restaurant’s official closure, he plans to host a private party for his staff at the restaurant.
The sale of the storied restaurant comes at a contentious time for Baxter Street. In 2017, former Mayor Bill de Blasio approved a plan to turn Chinatown’s Manhattan Detention Center into the world’s tallest jail, a proposal that local activists have long pushed back against — in part because of its affects on Chinatown businesses, some of which have already been forced to vacate. Forlini told Eater that his decision to close the restaurant was not related to the Baxter Street project.
This is The OFFICAL RECIPE for BOLOGNESE RAGU of BOLOGNA, ITALY
This RECIPE CRITERIA for a Properly Made “RAGU” (of Bologna) according to
AGRICOLTURA Di BOLOGNA (The Agricultural Commission of BOLOGNA)
New York Italian 